2016-04-28

Hemlock Tee Hack (Free Pattern by Grainline Studio)

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Nos últimos dias tive a oportunidade de costurar algumas peças de roupa para mim. Para isso serviu de empurraozito o post de hoje no Cose +. A Carla partilhou ontem, um post sobre o molde grátis da Hemlock Tee da Granline Studio, e hoje publicámos as versões que o resto da malta fez. O molde é tamanho único, e podem ver como ele assenta nos (nossos) vários tipos de corpo. A maior parte de nós fez alterações ao mesmo, por isso vale a pena espreitarem.

In the last couple of days, I was able to sew myself a few pieces. Cose +'s post from today, helped a little. Carla shared a post yesterday about the free pattern, Hemlock Tee from Granline Studio, and today we have shared the version the rest of us made. The pattern comes in a single size, and in the post you can see how it fits on (our) different body shapes. Most of all did a few adjustments, so it is worth checking it out. 


No meu caso, como sou tamanho S, bem pequeno tive que fazer várias. Além disso, como reparei nas fotos que vi online, que o decote era bem largo, optei por alterar esse detalhe também. Então vamos lá...

In my case, since I am a very small size S, I had a few adjustments to make. Besides, I noticed the wide neckline on the photos I previously saw online, so I chose to change that too. So, here we go...

Depois de traçar o molde, coloquei a peça da manga de lado, pois dispensei a manga. Nas peças do corpo, frente e trás, na marcação da cintura (onde diz para acrescentar ou cortar), eu retirei 10 cm à altura (foto 2). No lado que indica a dobra do tecido, nessas mesmas peças também, retirei 3 cm à largura (foto 1), o que equivale a uma medida real (largura) de 6 cm a menos, uma vez que essa peça se corta na dobra, é importante não esquecer. Depois de tratar da altura e da largura, ajustei a gola, para ficar mais fechada (o que me obrigou a ajustar o comprimento da banda da gola também). Na parte da frente (foto 3), colei uma folha por detrás e redesenhei a gola para a fechar, subiu cerca de 2 cm à frente. Já atrás (foto 4), alarguei ligeiramente, na foto podem ver o pedacinho de molde que cortei, e dobrei para trás.

After tracing the pattern, I put the sleeve piece aside, since I skipped it. In the body pieces, front and back, at the waist mark (where it says to shorten or lenghten), I took 10 cm to the lenght (photo2). At the fold side of the same pieces, I took 3 cm to the width (photo 1), which is actually 6 cm of the total width of the pieces, since they are cut on fold, it's important to remember that while doing your math. After taking care of lenght and width, I've adjusted the neckline in order to make it narrower (Which led me to adjust the neckband lenght as well). In the front piece (photo 3), I glued a sheet so I could draw a neckline, I made it about 2 cm higher. On the other hand, I slightly made the back (photo 4) wider as you can see in the photo, the bit I cut and folded to the back. 


Como dispensei as mangas, cortei dois retangulos com o comprimento da abertura (podem ver pela medida das mangas, ou medir diretamente nas marcas do molde da frente e trás) e cerca de 5 ou 6 cm de altura - desculpem, não tomei nota e já não me recordo. Dobrei essas peças ao meio (longitudinal) e marquei com o ferro, depois virei direito com direito, cosi as pontas mais curtas, criando um "anel" com cada uma, voltei a dobrar ao meio e cosi-as tal como na gola.

Since I let go of the sleeves, I've cut two rectangles with the armhole width (check it on the sleeve pattern or the marks on the front and back pieces) and about 5 or 6 cm high - I am sorry, I didn't write down how much and I can't remember anymore. I folded this pieces in half (lenght wise) and ironed, then I put them right sides together and sewed the shorter ends together, creating a loop with each of them, then I folded them wrong sides together and sewed them to the shirt as on the neckline.

O tecido usado nesta peça foi reciclado de um vestido XL que comprei há uns meses por uma pechincha, já com a reciclagem do mesmo em mente. Achei piada as linhas prateadas, e vi ali uma grande oportunidade. Malha, boa, a bom preço. Eu  acho que se não tinha um metro de tecido, andava bem perto, e como o vestido era quase um quadrado, com um pequeno corte no peito e depois franzido, fiquei com uma boa base para recortar a blusa sem recorrer a grandes invenções.

The fabric used in this shirt, was recycled from a XL dress I thrifted a few months ago. I was already thinking about refashioning it when I bought it for just a couple euros. I really liked the golden stripes, and I was an oportunity right away. Good knit, and cheap. I believe I had about a meterof fabric here, and because the dress was mostly a square, with just a little shape on the chest and just gathered, I was left with a great piece to cut without any big headaches. 

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