Burda Style 8/2015 |Pattern #125 B version|

Scroll down for english, please!

Não sei dizer há quanto tempo, mas há mesmo muito que na minha lista de desejos de costura estavam uma calças largas para mim. Tenho várias Burdas com algumas, e até já tinha feito o download das Aster Pants, molde grátis da Mood Sewciety, bastante semelhante a estas, mas faltava algo. 

I don't know for how long, but it's been quite a long time since I had the sewing wish to make myseld a pair of wide pants. I have several Burdas with a few, and I also had download the Aster Pants, a free pattern from Mood Sewciety, very similar to these I made, but there was something missing. 

Acabei por usar este molde em especifico porque tinha o meu tamanho (34) disponível, muitas das peças Burda só começam no 36 e tenho de ajustar, o que nem sempre me apetece. A parte de passar moldes e tal, é a minha menos preferida de toda a costura, assim que, quanto mais exato for, melhor. 

I ended up using this specific Burda pattern, because my size (eu 34) was available, many of their pieces only start at 36, and I always have to make adjustments, and not always feel like it. Pattern tracing and all that, is my least fave when it comes to sewing, so, if I can have things down for me, the better. 

Ainda assim, tive que apertar a cintura porque tenho as costas muito fundas em relação ao rabo, e mesmo em calças ou saias de compra é algo que tenho quase sempre de fazer, apertar a cintura e a parte superior do gancho traseiro. 

Still, I had to fix the waistband because my back is too deep comparing to mu bottom, and even in ready to wear pants and skirts I have to take them in most of the times, waist and upper back crotch. 

Uma vez que sou baixinha, tive também de cortar uma boa parte da bainha nestas calças. Deixei-a um pouco mais comprida para poder usar com saltos altos. Raramente uso saltos desde que fui mãe, mas que gosto, ai isso gosto de um bom salto. E para mim, estas calças só ficam bem com um belo de um salto alto. 

Also, because I am quite short I had to take a few inches off the lenght. I left it a little longer so I can wear it with hight heels. I rarely use them ever since I had kids, but do I love one, oh I do. And for me, these kind of pants only look good with a pair of heels. 

O tecido veio de casa da minha mãe. Era um bom pedaço e a cor é uma das minhas preferidas. O caimento também era o ideal para as calças que eu tinha em mente, sem ser demasiado pesado, mas também sem ser demasiado leve. 

This fabric came from my mother's house. It was a good piece of it and in one in my fave colors. It falls just right for the pants I wanted, being not too heavy ror too light.  

Das últimas peças que fiz, e segundo a minha filha, esta é a preferida. Embora também goste muito da camisa que mostrei no último post, tenho de concordar com ela. As calças são também as minhas preferidas. Com bolsos nas laterais, grandes pregas na frente, e fecha com fecho de correr e colcheta. 

From all the latest clothes I sewn lately, this is my daughter's fave. Although I also like the previous blouse I showed here, I have to agree with her. These are also my fave. They have side pockets, big front pleats, and closes with a zipper and bracket. 

Knit Pencil Skirt

Olá, olá! Este ano vou costurar mais para mim outra vez. Preciso daquele entusiamo que tinha quando comecei há uns anos. Preciso mesmo! Posso até começar por umas peças mais fáceis e rápidas, que dão satisfação instantânea, e gradualmente ir para aquelas que levam mais tempo, são mais detalhadas e complicadas. Não sei. Não posso dizer se será assim ou não, isso sim, é o que eu planeio. 

Hello, hello! I'm going to sew more for myself again this year. I need that sewing enthusiam from the early years back. I really need it back! I might be starting with the easy and quick, instant satisfying things, and gradually move into more time consuming, detailed or more complicated garments, I don't know. I can't tell I will or not, but sure that's what I plan to.

Participei no primeiro teste de molde do ano, com esta saia super simples e tão rápida de costurar da Pier Avenue Patterns. Digam lá, o que são três peças de molde e uma passagem rápida pela máquina de costura, para logo ter uma saia que embora simples, dá perfeitamente para uma situação mais prática ou mais aperaltada.

 

I did my first pattern test of the year, this amazing, quick and so, so easy pencil skirt by Pier Avenue Patterns. I mean, three pattern pieces, and a quick sew on your machine and you get a simple skirt that you can style up or down, according to your current mood. 

Claro está que este é o tamanho mais pequeno do molde, apenas tive que ajustar na parte mais alta da anca - já que perdi algum peso neste últimos meses e preciso mesmo de o ganhar de volta! Espero que a saia continue a servir depois.

Of course, this is the smallest size, I only had to take in a little at my upper hip - I lost a bit of weight these past few months, and I really need to get them back! I just hope I'll still fit in the skirt once I do.

Este ano estou determinada a usar o máximo possível de tecido da minha coleção antes de comprar mais. Sei que é uma cantiga que todas cantamos com frequência, mas tenho mesmo de o fazer desta vez. Assim que vou costurar com o que já tenho sempre que possível, e comprar o mínimo necessário. Dito isto, usei este tecido vermelho que comprei numa loja local. Não sei ao certo que tipo de tecido é. No molde aconselha um tecido que tenha elasticidade nos quatro sentidos, o que não acontece aqui, mas resultou, ao que parece. Tem alguma elasticidade, mas nada de por aí além. 

I am determined to use as much as possible from my stash this year, I really have to get my fabric pile down before getting more fabric. I know, that's an old song all of us sing often, but I really mean it this time. I will sew from my stash anytime possible, buy the least I can. So that said, I used this red fabric I had bought locally. I can't tell you what type exactly this is. The pattern calls for a 4 way stretch fabric, but this one isn't. It worked though, I guess. I has some stretch, but not much though. 

A cintura vem em duas alturas e eu escolhi a mais alta porque adoro este estilo muito mais que a cintura normal. Quando era mais nova não vestido nadica de nada acima do umbigo, mas depois aconteceram os filhos e o meu gosto também muito bastante.

There's two waist lenght options for this pattern and I chose to make the high waisted one because I love it so much more than regular waist lenght. When younger I wouldn't wear anything at all over my belly button, but then kids happened and my taste in waist highs changed along.

Esta foto dos bastidores tirada pelo meu marido enquanto me aprontava, mostra a cintura muito melhor que todas as outras fotos que tirámos nesse dia. / This backstage picture my husband shoot while I was getting ready, shows the waist better than any of the other pictures we did that day...

E querem saber o melhor? Podem ter este molde GRÁTIS, sim! Podem comprá-lo por 5$ na Pier Avenue Patterns, ou podem subscrever o newsletter e receber o molde grátis com a subscrição. Eu não vejo a hora de experimentar a minha saia com um look mais descontraído e confortável para o dia a dia. Consigo imaginar a saia muito bem com uma camisola e ténis, não?

Do you want to get to know the best thing though? You can get this pattern for FREE, yes! You can buy it for 5$ over at Pier Avenue Patterns, or you can sign for their newletter and get the pattern for free. I can´t wait to style mine in a more comfy way for the daily basis look. I can totally picture it with a sweater and some sneackers, don't you?! 

Mochi bags |FREE pattern by Sew Chibi|

Hello again everyone! How's 2021 been for you so far? We are in lockdown once again, and suddenly Portugal became the country with more covid cases when looking at numbers by population. Personally, me and my family have escaped from the virus so far, hope as many as possible of you are save too. We all have enough about this already, so let's move to the good stuff, and the good stuff is always about sewing, of course. 

One of the few things I sewed this past year for Christmas was this Sonic waistbag for my son. I made my first Mochi bag, a free pattern by Sew Chibi, back in June 2019, a girl's L.O.L. version for my birthday girl. I sure had a very bad day when I sewed that one up because when you compare both it's hard to believe the same person sewed them. 🤣🤣 As you know though, we're not here for the bling and I have no problem at all to show you my failures too. 

Well... is it still a failure if your kid adores it and wears it like crazy? Maybe it's not such a failure after all! Just saying! Anywayssss... So, I made that first one as a birthday present for my girl who was turning 8 and had a LOL themed party (I also sewed her a dress to match, should look for those photos), which she was crazy about back then... One year and something forward, and there goes her love for such dolls. 

For hers I used the same fabric I had bought to sew the dress, and the L.O.L. applique was a sticker she gave me. I then ironed some plastic on top and sewed it to the front piece. It still lasts, shiny as new. I clearly failed the sewing lesson this time, I was even able to mess the side tabs by placing them upside down. 

Ever since, my youngest also wanted one for him too. I said I would make it, but time just kept passing and nothing. Every now and then, he would see his sister's and remind me he had asked for one too. As her love for the L.O.L. dolls decreased and with lockdown keeping us at home, she barely used any bags and this was forgotten. 

Every now and then we visited a flea market where kids love to buy some second hand toys or books with their own money, so I like them to have a small bag they can carry their wallet on. Covid cancelled our markets, and he won't take his new bag to one anytime soon, but I had to make this for him. 

He loves Sonic, and so I stamped the front piece after printing the image. I then handstitched his name on it too - and I was so happy I did when he opened the present on Christmas Eve. The boy was crazy about it! This one is not flawless, but it is sooooo much better than his sister's. I should make her a new one, really! It's just that the sewing list is always growing, and I don't sew as much as I'd like anymore. 

I also have the adult version of the Mochi bag but didn't get a chance to try that one too. I should make some matching ones for me and hubby... ahahah... I wonder what he'd think of it?!

What have you been sewing?!

Newborn Onesie for my nephew

Scroll down for english, please. 

Não sei se alguém se recorda, mas em 2014, um pouco antes do meu filho nascer, fiz-lhe dois bodies com um molde que eu mesma desenhei e que partilhei aqui no blog para quem queira usar também. Pois bem, desde esses dois não tinha tido oportunidade de voltar a fazer mais nenhum até que soubemos que a minha cunhada mais nova ia ter um menino. O menino já fez uma ano em Outubro - só para terem noção de há quanto tempo costurei este último.

I don't know if any of you can remember, but, back in 2014, just a little before my son was born,I made him two onesies with a self drafted pattern that I later shared on the blog for anyone to use. Well, I haven't made anymore of these ever since, until I knew my sister-in-law was having a baby boy. The baby boy was one in October - so you can have an idea of how long ago I sewed this latest one. 

Tinha apenas um metro deste tecido que comprei na Feira dos Tecidos numa visita a Lisboa para me encontrar com algumas amigas das costurices. Logo ali fiquei encantada com ele e pensei em fazer um pijama ou qualquer coisa assim para o meu filhote. E uns meses depois foi mesmo isso que fiz e que já foi partilhado aqui. Com o pouco que me sobrou desse metro de tecido consegui fazer este body.

I had bought just one meter of this fabric at Feira dos Tecidos, when I went to Lisbon to meet some of my sewing buddies. Right there I fell in love with it and thought about making some pajamas for my son or something like that. A few months after, that's exactly what I did, which I have shared here. With the little fabric Ihad left I was able to make the onesie. 

Não resisti a tirar esta foto acima, para comparar os tamanhos. Em cima o minúsculo body para o meu sobrinho, por baixo apenas a parte de cima do pijama que fiz para o meu filho em tamanho 2 anos. Fazer roupa para recém nascidos é uma coisa extremamente ternurenta.

I didn't resist taking the photo above, just so you could compare sizes. On top the tiny onesie for my nephew, and underneath only the top portion of the size 2 pajamas I made for my son. Making newborn clothes it's extremely cute. 

Como já mencionei acima, o molde é meu e só o tenho neste tamanho, a quem interessar, podem encontrar tanto o molde como o passo a passo para o mesmo aqui. Tem opção de manga curta ou manga comprida. Na altura para o meu filho fiz um de cada. É um projecto que requer o domínio de algumas técnicas e que dependendo da vossa experiência poderá levar mais ou menos tempo, o que eu acho pessoalmente é que vale a pena. Eu senti-me imensamente satisfeita ao terminar cada um dos que fiz até aqui.

As I mentioned above, it is a self drafted pattern, one size only, if you're interested you can find both pattern and instructions to sew it right here. It has a long and a short sleeve option. Back when I made my son's I did one of each. It is a project that requires some techniques knowledge and according to your experience might take more or less time, in my opinion, either way it is worth making. I did feel so pleased when I finished each one of them. 

É também uma oportunidade excelente de dar uso àqueles pequenos retalhos de tecidos que adoramos mas que não são suficientes para nada. Deixo abaixo - para quem ainda não viu - os exemplos dos que fiz para o meu filho também. No meu caso reciclei outras peças de roupa para os fazer, usando o color blocking. Ficaram bem giros e diferentes do que se costuma encontrar por ai. Ou seja, mesmo a minha cara.

It is also an excelente oportunity to put those small scraps from your bin, the ones you love deeply but are never enough for any of your projects. I leave below - for those who haven't seen it yet - the examples I made for my son too. In my case, I refashion other pieces to make them, using some color blocking. They got pretty awesome and different from those rtw around. So, just so me. 

Savings Made By Sewing |Patterns|

all my free patterns. find them HERE

Today I get to do something with a great meaning to me. I am part of the Savings Made By Sewing series hosted by Dana, over Sew Thrifty. I will be sharing with you my tips to save some money on patterns over there, while I put up a tutorial to help you copying a pattern from a loved rtw. 

***

When I became a SAHM I knew our income would get a drastic cut down, and I knew I had to be more careful where I'd spend my money on. I stopped buying new fabric, and I didn't allow myself to buy any patterns because I had already a huge collection of pattern magazines, such as Burda, Patrones, Manequim... most of those patterns are women's, but from time to time they get kid's editions too. Sometimes, when I can't find the pattern I want from any of these, I will adjust any other basic one into what I want/need. Other times, I simply use rtw pieces to copy the pattern from. There are a few ways to make it, but today I will show you how to do one of the ones I use more often: the pins method. 

This is pretty simple, or not. It depends on the piece you are copying the pattern from. I picked a tank top to show you how I do it, I hope the pictures are clear enough. 

Start by folding the front or the back piece in half vertically. It doesn't really matter which one you do first. Make sure to align the seams and hold them with pins. Make sure it aligns at the armholes, neckline, shoulders, etc. Get a sheet as big as your piece (if it is too big, tape a few together). For this tutorial I used a piece of cardbox, hoping it'd be easier to explain how it should look, but any kind of paper works fine. 

Align the fold on the top to the edge of the paper and pin the piece to the paper (try using a rubber base, or anything foamy underneath). Start at the top and pin to the bottom. Straighten the fabric and pin through the side seam too. Leave the shoulder for now. Use another pin to drill around the edges and seams, from one to the next pin you have added before. You will create lines all around (see last picture above). 

Once you got it all drilled, unpin the bottom of the tank top, so you can pull it up and lay it flat on your table. MAke sure to keep the top pins in place so it doesn't move from the right spot. Repeat the drilling process all up the armhole seam, neckline and the shoulders. I tried to show how it will look like once you take your fabric top off, but I'm not sure it's easy to see in the picture (first from the second row above). With a pen, connect all the dots and you will get a pattern piece. My back piece has a not too stretchy elastic so when I got there, I just had to pull it so the fabric would get it's normal shape and pin it right there, then pinned through the elastic line to have a line on the pattern that shows me where I should add the elastic. When sewing, you can measure the elastic, not stretched out to know the measurements you need for it. You can see that line on the last picture above. 

The back piece is done, let's do the front one. You just do it the same way. Pay attention if any parts have special details. My front was slightly gathered on the top, so when copying the pattern, I didn't pin it close to the edge as I did with the rest of the center. See 2nd picture above. You don't want to stretch any parts of your fabric unless needed as in the elastic on the back. The distance between the edge and the top, is the distance you'll need to gather in your front top. Use a sign to note it. 

There you have it. It is a nice one, you just need 2 pattern pieces. Because I did mine in cardbox I then copied it into tracing paper for the final touches. Align the side seams to make sure they match. if they don't, draw a line that fixes it. Repeat it for the shoulder seams, and you're done. Before cutting into your fabric, you need to add seams allowances all around it but the folded edges, which are the front and back centers. You can also make a quick muslin first to check for any other adjustments. 

Make sure to follow along for a whole lot of useful tips. 

Fabric: July 6: Sew Thrifty | July 7: Feather's Flights | July 8: Mabey She Made It | July 9: Phat Quarters | July 10: Vicky Myers Creations

Patterns: July 13: Sew Thrifty | July 14: Sew a Straight Line | July 15: House of Estrela | July 16: Sew Straight and Gather | July 17: A Real Life Country Housewife

Supplies: July 20: Sew Thrifty | July 21: Bernina Representative | July 22: Pretty Practical | July 23: Finn's Door | July 24: Lulu and Celeste

General Tips: July 27: Sew Thrifty | July 28: From-a-Box | July 29: Willow & Stitch | July 30: Knot Sew Normal | July 31: Bringing it All Together by Sew Thrifty

My Weekly Refashion Share #3 |Peter Pan Collar Tutorial|

If you're looking for the giveaway, please click HERE. 

Today I am sharing an outfit I made for G. I've been wanting to share this one on the blog for sooooo long, because it was one of those we fall in love with even before we finish sewing it. In one of my charity shopping trips I saw a pair of women's size flowerly capris, and I had my eye on it. I didn't bring it home because I was convinced to bring only the kind of pieces I went there looking for. But everytime I went there, they were still hanging, calling out for me, and eventually, one of those days, it came home. 

So, for 1€ only, I thought I could make my daughter a new pair of skinny jeans, since I had just made a few pairs back then and it can get quite addicting when you're in love with a pattern. But then something lightened my brain and I was reminded of a great free shorts pattern I had seen many months before, and wanted to try ever since. It was time to do it and so I did. But, not only I made a pair of shorts from these old capris, I was also able to make another Izzy top out of the pieces I had left. AND I have even put up a tutorial for you on how to add a peter pan collar to your Izzy top/dress as I did for my Izzy Paris look. 

First things first, let me start with the shorts. The pattern I've used was the City Shorts Pattern, which is a 3-4y sized pattern, given away for free by Monica, over Another Dress. The fact that it was 3-4y sized kept me from sewing it earlier, especially because I have a skinny princess. I decided to go for it though and if it turned out too big, we could always wait until she grew into it. I just used a little less lenght in the elastic for it to fit her skinny waist as changes to the pattern, for all the rest I followed instructions, and I loved the final results. Once she saw them finished, she loved it too. I had them hanging and everyday she would ask me if those were made for her. The best thing is that I am sure this is something she will be able to wear for a long long time, once that waist gets too tight I can always replace the elastic for a longer one. And, because the fabric is a slightly stretchy denim, she can even wear it in different year seasons, with or without layers. 

Of course, I loved the scraps way too much to part from them, they were begging me to be used too, and I couldn't resist the plea. I had another Izzy Top in mind. I had just finished and publish the Paris look one, and Teri, the designer of this great pattern asked me if I could put up a tutorial on how to add a peter pan collar to her top (or give her permision to do so herself), and I immediately said yes, of course I would do it. It's a pleasure! Here's a reminder of that top:

Today, I am happy to finally share the tutorial on how to draft and add a peter pan collar to your Izzy top too. 

Drafting your own collar:

Start your Izzy top and follow Teri's tutorial up until step 10. Then come back here and draft your collar. 

In the 4th photo above, I've added just 1cm (3/4"), but you can add a bit more if wanted, just depends on how you want your collar to look like. The same happens with the width, mine isn't a very big collar, so you can add as many cm or inches as you'd feel comfortable with. 

Sewing your collar:

For this top I used the same fabric for the outside and inside of collar, but if you check the one above (the black and white one), there's faux leather with applications on the outside and stripped fabric on the inside. If you're using different fabrics too, you should cut 2 interfacing, 2 main fabric and 2 lining fabric pieces. If adding any applications, make sure to add them before you sew any pieces together. When interfacing, you can pick either the 2 main fabric pieces or the lining ones, it doesn't really matter. Then put main and lining right sides together pin and sew as shown on pictures above. 

Go back to Teri's tutorial to seehow to add the bodice lining, and come right back here.

And that's it. If you have any doubts, please feel free to ask and I will help if I can. 

My Weekly Refashion Share #1 |FREE pattern & tutorial|

If you're looking for the giveaway, please click HERE. 

A couple of months ago I made these two onesies for my baby boy. You can read more about them by clicking each photo.

   

They were both refashions from t-shirts, and ever since I made them, I've been wanting to share a tutorial. But not only a tutorial, you can have a FREE pattern, the one I drafted for my own. If you are expecting a baby, or have someone close to you that is, this would make a great gift, so go ahead, grab the PATTERN, print it and let's start sewing. 

Note before you start: 

- Some pattern pieces need to be taped together. In order to do that, you have to match the number on the pattern and letters A to B. Example: piece 4A to piece 4B. Tape them matching the symbols on both pieces. 

- I didn't realise it, but I've added two star pattern pieces, but just one is enough, of course. It is an optional add. 

- All seams are 1/4" except for sleeves hem, which are 1" long. (they are included in the pattern)

- Just one more thing, I've added a pattern piece for the short sleeves and one for the long sleeves option, when cutting your fabric, remember you just need one of the lenghts. 

Supplies: 

I have used t-shirts for the entire pieces. Even for the knit bias tape (in black). If you choose to add the star appliqué, you will also need just a little bit of fusible interfacing too. You can mix different fabric colours, but try to keep them from soft knit, it is a piece you're making for the delicate skin of a new baby. You will also need snaps. 

Cutting:

Start by cutting your pieces (make sure to have the right sides facing up). Information on how many to cut on each piece is on pattern and on the picture above. Besides the pattern pieces, you will need to use two tiny bits of scraps, cut them about 1"x2", fold it lenght wise and use a zig zag stitch all around the edges. You'll have two little squares you'll want to save for later. 

Sewing:

- Start by hemming both sleeves. Finish hem edges, then fold 1" towards the inside, press and stitch. This step is not pictured because I used the original hems from the t-shirts. If you're doing the same, remember to cut 1" off of the pattern piece. 

- With right sides together (RST) pin shoulders. Finish your seams (with a zigzag stitch/overlock), and press towards the back piece. 

- Place onesie with right side facing up, put sleeve RST and pin the sleeve all around (in case you have any doubts, check the colour/fabric of right and left sleeve in my onesie to check if you're doing it right). 

- Sew it and finish your seams. Press towards the sleeve. Do not repeat for the other sleeve (left side) yet. 

 

- Use one of those little scrap squares to add to the side seam in the right side of the onesie (first red arrow). When you sew the sides together it should be attached to the front side piece, and will stay in the interior of the onesie when you're done (as seen on the fouth photo below). 

- The second arrow on the first photo shows were the other little square will be added, but we'll get there a little later. 

- Put RST of the side and pin it from sleeve to bottom. Sew and finish your seams. 

- Make sure you have enough bias tape (I used about 44", but I guess it might change a little according to the stretch in your fabrics so the best thing to do is to measure all around your piece to know how much you will need, or just go, with the same measurement I've used and add an extra inch or two to be sure it will be enough. 

- Start pinning the bias tape right side of bias, facing wrong side of onesie, at the bottom of the front left side seam and go all around until you reach the bottom of the back left side (I hope it is clear in the first photo below). 

- Press seams down, turn about 1/4" and then the same again. 

- Pin and sew (on the right side) with a double needle or a zigzag stich. Don't pull your fabric while stitching, allow your machine to feed it and just guide it carefully. 

- This is how it will look when you're done with this step:

- You can add the other sleeve now, following the same steps you did to attach the first one, and can be seen on the photos below. 

- Close the left side seam. Put RST, and remember to add the second square to the seam. Pin, sew and finish seams. 

- Your onesie is almost finished. The last step consists in adding snaps. Check on pattern the places you should add them, they are marked with a circle, but you also have this photo here to help you:

And just a little more help, here's how snaps should be added:

Optional:

- I had just one extra step in my onesie. A problem that turned into garment design, I'd say. When I finished the whole thing, I realised it had two holes in the buttom of the back piece, as arrows below point to. To cover the mess, I've cut a piece from the black t-shirt scraps, used fusible interfacing to make it stiffer, used the star shapped pattern to cut an applique, pinned and stitched it on top of the holes. You can also do it to add style to your onesie, or not. Also you can apllique it in any other place of the onesie if you'd like. 

Now put it on your new baby and enjoy your newest creation.